Author: Jessica Gelzer
In a few weeks, the best and worst dressed stars at the Academy Awards will be crowned. The homepage of Yahoo, the cover of People magazine, and the E! Channel will be flooded with critiques of outfits worn down the red carpet and into Hollywood’s Kodak Theater. While this fashion show of sorts is just as much a part of the glamour as the cheesy lines of presenters and teary-eyed speeches of winners, it isn’t truly a showcase of the clothes the night was created to celebrate: those featured in this year’s nominated films. If the purpose of the Oscars is to celebrate the artistry that goes into filmmaking, the costumes on-screen are what fashion critics should notice instead.
The 17th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition celebrates the artistic design found in nominated films before the awards ceremony. Located in the gallery of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising (FIDM), the exhibit features mostly costumes from last year’s films. If you care about more than just the award for Best Picture, this is a great way to appreciate the genius behind the designs.
Upon my arrival at the exhibition, I was disappointed to see that not all the costumes from the nominated movies were on display. Although they may not have been the biggest hits of the year, I was looking forward to viewing the meticulously chosen 1940s ensembles in Australia, designed by Catherine Martin, who won Best Costume Design for Moulin Rouge in 2001.
Similarly, Albert Wolsky, the designer for Revolutionary Road, has a long nomination history. Wolsky won his first Oscar for the 1979 Broadway production All That Jazz. He continued to earn the Academy’s respect for his design in 1991, winning his second Oscar for his design in Bugsy. Both designers were mentioned in the exhibit, but their costume designs were nowhere to be seen.
Because the designs seemed similar and equally matched, it was impossible to pick out an obvious winner. The Duchess exhibit seemed to be made up of typical Keira Knightly garb (think Pirates of the Caribbean or Pride and Prejudice), with lace-lined corsets atop hoop skirts as well as multiple camisoles. The unoriginality of The Duchess’ designs left me wondering what distinguished these costumes from any of the other numerous corsets in the room, such as the vibrantly colored costumes of The Other Boleyn Girl, or even last year’s winner, Elizabeth: The Golden Age.
The Curious Case of Benjamin Button‘s designer, Jaqueline West, flaunted the reason for her nomination in her ability to span eighty years in her designs. From sagging sweater vests to tight leather jackets, the costume choices maintained a level of accuracy for each decade that Brad Pitt portrayed. With 13 nominations, Button has by far the most Oscar nods, but whether or not they will come away as the winners in the costume design category has yet to be determined.
Though the screened t-shirt with a picture of a closet and the words, “I’ll never go back,” looks like something you could pick up at Urban Outfitters, the overall costume design in Milk maintained the original flair of the 1970s. Designer Danny Glicker maintained authenticity by going out of his way to purchase a variety of vintage clothing to dress the characters on screen. However, in spite of their age, the pieces had a fresh and new look. Even more unbelievable was that James Franco could actually fit into the skintight bellbottoms displayed on the mannequin. Though Glicker’s costume design clearly belongs in a different category than The Duchess’ hand-sewn works, Glicker’s skill lay in his meticulous sincerity to both the characters and the time period.
Though the Oscar nominees were the feature presentation, the fashion exhibition also showcased a mélange of costumes from other recent films. One of the most popular exhibits, which became my personal favorite, displayed costumes featured in The Dark Knight, including the new and improved Batsuit. Two-face’s suit was even soiled with residual blood, as if it had just come off the set. However, just as he did in the movie, the Joker’s recognizable style stole the show. Each piece of the ensemble designed by Lindy Hemming showcased his character, from his plum leather gloves to his checkered socks.
So, when you’re at home watching the Academy Awards Feb. 22, 2009, don’t get distracted by the glamorous stars walking down the red carpet; instead, think about the intricate design of the costumes in the films. Ultimately, they are the real stars of the show.
FIDM is located in Downtown LA at 919 S. Grand Avenue. The exhibit is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 to 4 until March 29. The show is free to the public.
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