Author: Katherine Lonsdorf
The song “Turning Japanese” by The Vapors has always had a special place in my heart.
My childhood summers were spent at a Japanese immersion camp in Minnesota where I spoke, ate, listened to and shopped everything Japanese for weeks at a time. Slowly, despite being a tall, blonde white girl from the Midwest, I developed a much stronger bond with the Japanese culture than with any country in my mutt-like European heritage. I brought sushi to lunch in elementary school, gorged on Pocky instead of Oreos and Hershey’s bars, folded origami during class and owned a full kimono by age eight.
Later, I lived in Japan, embodying the culture as well as that song. But Japan has always seemed like another world to me-requiring an excruciatingly long plane flight and a lot of extra cash. Not anymore.
If you appreciated any of the Japanese references above, you’ve probably already taken part in the delight of Little Tokyo, located just downtown right around the intersection of First and San Pedro Streets. And if you didn’t, then you need to get going down the 101 South as soon as possible.
If you take the right route (101 South, avoiding the 110 at all costs), Little Tokyo is only a short 15-20 minute drive from Oxy. Despite its small area, it’s bursting with activity. It may be a bit of a culture shock for the unfamiliar, but be brave-it’s well worth it.
Start anywhere, but if you park on Second Street you get cheap meters with a central location. From there, it’s a crash course in Japanese culture you will not soon forget.
Right near the corner of Second and San Pedro, you’ll find Weller Court, a small shopping and dining center with curry, ramen, and yakitori restaurants, some cafes, the Marukai Market and Kinokuniya, a bookstore chain from Japan. Marukai Market is a nice introduction to Japanese supermarkets (way different from American ones and way more fun); it’s relatively small and not overwhelming to a newcomer. However, if you’re looking for the big one, go down to Alameda Street, where you’ll find Mitsuwa Marketplace, the largest Japanese supermarket in the U.S.
The most popular area of Little Tokyo, however, is further down Second Street towards South Central Avenue-the Japanese Village Plaza. Filled with everything from Manga and Anime to mochi and shabu-shabu, this small courtyard packs a powerful Japanese punch.
Take the time to discover the dollar sections in the plaza shops like Wa-Raku and Tokyo Gifts, emulating the 100 yen stores so popular in Japan. From bowls and plates to fold-out fans, school supplies to paper lanterns, I guarantee you’ve never seen a dollar go so far.
Most importantly, come hungry and you will leave happy. Within the court, you’ll find numerous different treats that are hard to come by anywhere else in the city. At Misturu Café, you can watch through the window as they make fresh dorayaki, sweet red beans between two fluffy, warm cakes, for a dollar. Stand in line (because there will be one) to buy at least two or three. Also notice Mikawaya, a specialty shop with dozens of kinds of mochi, a sweet cake with different fillings, ice cream, and gelato. Across the way you’ll find Yamazaki Bakery, offering a selection of light Japanese style baked goods like green tea soft cake, melon bread, sweet potato rolls and cream puffs for cheap. Finally, although it’s not traditionally Japanese and not exactly cheap, try Ce Fiore Frozen Yogurt for something fresh and light-like Pinkberry, only better.
The numerous restaurants throughout Little Tokyo offer the best selection of real, traditional, home-cooked Japanese food anywhere, with low prices. Nearly every restaurant will post a menu outside, and some even have the customary plastic food displayed in the window for the visually inspired. Remind yourself that the Japanese eat more than sushi-go for tempura, Japanese curry, yakisoba, a katsudon rice bowl or fresh ramen or udon.
Restaurants within the plaza will be a little more expensive-especially Shabu-Shabu House, a kind of Japanese fondue with hot broth instead of cheese-although upstairs are places like ZenCu Sushi, offering half price rolls and happy hour throughout the day. On the other side of the plaza, on First Street across from the Miyako Hotel, you’ll find places like Usui Restaurant and Suehiro Café, which are small, family owned, affordable and authentically delicious.
The cultural experience is not just for your taste buds either. The Japanese American National Museum on First Street promotes the diversity of America by sharing different experiences of Japanese Americans. The Higashi Honganji Buddhist Temple on Third Street is also open to the public and worth a look; it’s been around since 1904. There are also two beautiful Japanese gardens open to the public, one next to the Japanese American Cultural and Community Center and the other atop the New Otani Hotel.
Finally, keep in mind that the 17th annual Tofu Festival is being held here August 12-13 this summer. With a tofu eating contest, a performance by Blackalicious, and an appearance by Iron Chef Morimoto, this is definitely one to mark on your calendar (I know I have).
Little Tokyo is the perfect alternative to a long and expensive journey across the Pacific, while still providing that “tourist within your own city” feeling. If you’ve never experienced Japan outside of the sushi rolls at the Cooler, it’s even more reason to go. Take a deep breath, relax, open your mind, heart and stomach-turning Japanese is a wonderful experience.
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